There are several reasons why online second-hand apparel sites (such as ThredUp, Poshmark, Depop in the U.S. and Vinted, Vestier Collective in Europe) as well as the entire market have grown and will continue to grow, among these reasons we can find:

• Affordability: Value is one of the main drivers influencing purchasing second hand apparel. It is indeed an affordable alternative for fashion enthusiasts to revamp their wardrobes without breaking the bank.

• Variety and Uniqueness: Second-hand marketplaces offer a wide range of styles and unique items that may no longer be available in traditional retail stores, allowing for more individualized fashion choices.

• Vintage and Designer Finds: Second-hand platforms often have vintage or designer clothing at a fraction of the original cost, providing access to high-quality items that might be otherwise unaffordable.

• Convenience: Online platforms make it convenient to browse and purchase second-hand clothes from the comfort of your home, with worldwide shipping expanding the options available.

• Sustainability: Second hand apparel is an environmentally friendly choice, as it extends the lifespan of garments and reduces the demand for new production. This is one strong driver of purchase and a main claim among most second-hand retailers.

In Europe for example, according to a 2023 study commanded by EuRIC Textiles, the quantities of used textiles collected are increasing, while the proportion of high-quality reusable garments is decreasing. Towards 2030, the amount of separately collected textiles might reach 8.5– 9 million tons. Currently, around 50-75 % of the collected textiles are reused, whereas 10-30 % is recycled.

Towards 2030 however, it is expected that a smaller portion will be suitable for reuse, and that more will be fit for recycling. This is because the requirement of separately collected textiles is expected to divert textiles from mixed waste which are likely not fit for reuse, as well as a general trend of falling quality.

But recycling has its limits. Despite a mature and growing industry of mechanical recyclers, there are challenges in terms of specific feedstock-requirements, and for each recycling round, the fibers are shortened and will ultimately not create strong enough yarn.

It is clear that reuse should be prioritized over recycling, even when the reuse occurs in other global regions.

The lifecycle impact assessment of reuse compared to recycling in Europe, shows that reuse avoids more than recycling, and is therefore environmentally beneficial for all qualities.

It important to highlight that over the years the overall falling quality of textiles used in clothes and specially among fast-fashion brands does not allow their reuse and these end up as waste. It is critical to reduce the consumption of fast-fashion items (even as a second-hand option).

On the other hand, the lifecycle impact assessment of reuse compared to a new product carried in this same study, confirms that the environmental impact of reuse is significantly lower than the production of a new garment.

For both premium quality clothing textiles and the second-grade textiles t-shirt, the new garment is responsible for almost 70 times more overall environmental impact than a reused t-shirt, and in terms of CO2-equivalents, the reuse of both types of garments saves more than 3 kg CO2.

The impact from a new garment primarily comes from the production of fibers as well as the production in itself, whereas the little impact connected with reuse comes from transportation to point of sales. But the latter is comparably trivial to the impact of the production of a new garment, that the study supports the existence of a global market for reuse, despite the connected transportation.

We still need to consume less, over-consumption, even if it’s second-hand, has an impact on the planet and on society. Less is more and quality should be prioritized over quantity.

Some other ideas to reduce the impact of buying online second-hand:

• Evaluate True Need: Before listing items for sale, evaluate whether you genuinely need to sell them. Consider donating instead.

• Consider Local Transactions: When possible, consider buying and selling locally to reduce the carbon footprint associated with shipping. Local transactions may involve less transportation and packaging.

• Support policies that control the amount of waste from apparel brands is another way to drive change from brands.